For our research, we poured over the collections of Korea's museums featured on the Google Art Project and unearthed heaps of incredible naturalist art, as expected. But even more exciting are the mind-blowing translucent garb and headgear from the 19th and 19th centuries. Here are a few examples of brilliant gossamer beauty and craftsmanship (sprinkled amongst comparative art we love) that are crying out to be mimicked in modern haute couture (particularly that Heukrip). (The descriptions are copied verbatim from the museum's information on Google Art Project since those curators know 100% more than I).
Above:
Portrait of Gwon Gi-su (Detail), Chae
Yong-sin
1850 - 1919
National Museum of Korea
19th century
Seok Juseon Memorial
Museum, Dankook University
The black hat is worn by adult men after the Clothing Regulation Reform published during the reign of King Gojong (1864-1907). The hat is a complete set of hat, string, hook, Yeong and ties and it is for the nobility. The decorative string is constructed with 18 bamboo beads and 18 transparent amber beads, and a hexagonal ring in the middle.
Joseon Dynasty, 18th
century
Horim Museum
Unlike Choi Buk's landscape
paintings that depict his character, this shows he was also good at painting
animals that required detailed descriptions. The feature of the rabbit, which
stopped moving, contains a calm atmosphere with a simple background. In the
description of the background, these paintings feature a damp atmosphere, which
is a characteristic feature found in Choi Buk’s landscape paintings. These
paintings demonstrates his elaborate description skill in expressing an object.
19th century
Seok Juseon Memorial
Museum, Dankook University
Heuksamo is one of coronet
worn with the civil and military officials' robes for working. Heuksamo is made
of black Mora(silk), and two single layered wings are attached horizontally in
the rear—this indicates the wearer was the 4th to 9th rank government officials.
Gyupsamo is a similar coronet, made with same material, however it has two
double layered wings attached horizontally in the rear; this was worn by 1st to
3rd rank government officials.
Joseon, 19th Century
Jangseogak, Academy of
Korean Studies
It is a painting of Taejo’s
ancestors’ tombs in Northern Hamgyeong province. Only 6 pieces of pictures are
found today. Each picture indicates 24 bearings, and writes on the top right
the name and location of the tomb, the title of the ancestors’ who were honored
as a king, the name of his queen and numbers of children. The picture clearly
shows Feng-sui features; mountain ranges and topography is emphasized and
composed to look as if the ranges are spread out from the center, and the
center is described to show vital force of the earth. This picture seems to
have been repainted every time there was a change to the tombs or the surrounding
buildings.
Jeogori Baji, Jacket and Pants for Men
20th century
Seok Juseon Memorial
Museum, Dankook University
Baji and Jeogori (pants and
top) from the time of the enlightenment. Jeogori is made of silk and Baji is
made of cotton, but both are heavily padded with batting for the winter.
Joseon, 1888 (year 25 of
Gojong)
Jangseogak, Academy of
Korean Studies
It was Gojong’s diplomatic letter
(June 1888, year 25 of Gojong) to congratulate on the inauguration of French
president (3 December 1887). King’s diplomatic letters in Joseon period were
mainly sent to neighboring countries like Japan or Jurchens, but after a reform
in Gabo year, the diplomatic letter included King’s own letter and treaties
sent to the western world. This is part of the letter that was sent to the
French president on 3rd December 1887 to congratulate him on being a head of a
state. At that time, the French president was Sadi Camot. “Baeklisehcheondeok’
in the letter is a Korean writing of Chinese sound of the word “President”.
1699-1782
Seok Juseon Memorial
Museum, Dankook University
This single layered Shimui,
made of satin, is the first outfit out of the clothing that the dead wore as a cerements.
The skirt of the coat is constructed with twelve panels and this symbolize the
12 months of a year. And the connected structure of the skirt part and the top
part symbolized the connection between the sky and the earth. The half width of
sleeve is same as the length of the waist-up. Double layered breast ties were
sewn in between the bodice and the skirt in the front. The front opening, hem,
cuffs and the fabric belt is trimmed with black tapes. The waist is wrapped
around with a fabric belt and tied in a knot. Then a braided narrow belt is
hooked on the top and hung down parallel. Although the color of a belt is
faded, it suggest that many color threads were used to braid the belt.
Around 1770
Seokdang Museum of Dong-A
University
19th century
Seok Juseon Memorial
Museum, Dankook University
Hakchangui is an everyday
clothes for a senior scholar or a nobleman. This single layered coat is made of
white Soonin (silk, simple gauze). The collar, hem, front opening, slit and the
cuffs are trimmed with black Soonin as well. The sleeve is wide. The black
seams have slits up to the same level of underarm, and the side seams have
slits in half.
Cows by an Old Tree (Detail), Kim Sik
1579 - 1662
National Museum of Korea
19th century
Seok Juseon Memorial
Museum, Dankook University
This Durumagi is made of
Sampalju (fine silk tabby), and lined with silk tabby. It is layered with
cotton batting for the elderly of upper class for the winter season. This kind
of padded coat, the most extravagant outfit for the seniors of 1900s, began to
disappear by the time that foreign fabrics were introduced.
Joseon, 1718 (year 44 of
Sukjong)
Jangseogak, Acemdy of
Korean Studies
A map of a mountain
produced in 1718 when selecting a burial place for Lady Choi, a birthmother of
Yeongjo and a concubine of Sukjong. Soryeongwon area which is now situated in
Yeongjangli, Gwangtanmyeon, Paju city in Gyeonggi province, was selected as a
candidate for the burial place and the picture was painted to show that it was
a good place. Whenever there was a funeral of the king or the queen, the royal
palace would send an official who was good at Chinese geology to look for the
good place for the burial. When he was reporting back to the king, he produced
such map and writing. Sanron was a written description about the geological
factors of certain place. Yeoning-gun (Yeongjo)’s stamp is sealed.
19th century
Seok Juseon Memorial
Museum, Dankook University
Salchang-gojaengee means a 'window
pane pants', as Sal means a pane, Chang means a window. It is an underpants
made of hemp clothe worn by women in souther region, where is very hot and
humid in summer. This one has eight openings on each crotchs for air draft. It
was originated in Gyeonsang-do region, but generally worn without such reference
until 1930s.
White hawk painting (Detail)
Around 1850, The Qing
Dynasty in China
Seokdang Museum of Dong-A
University
Seok Juseon Memorial
Museum, Dankook University
The Dangui is unlined and
made of gauze with a lotus motif. The sleeve is widely cuffed with a white fine
tabby, and the collar on the overlapping panel is squared but stands straight
upward at the end from the front opening, known as Mokpandangko-git. The outer
breast ties are made of dark brown tabby silk, and the inner ties are smaller
and lighter in color than the outer ones.
Landscape, Yi Jing
1851 – 1951
Seoul National University
Museum
Hwagakbit, Decorated Combs made of
bamboo and ox horn
Seok Juseon Memorial
Museum, Dankook University
19th century
Horim Museum
This painting shows Guo
Ziyi of the Tang Dynasty, hosting a banquet. Guo Ziyi lived a prosperous life,
serving as a high ranking official and saw all of his children succeed as well.
In other words, he enjoyed all the fortune one could hope for in a lifetime,
and was therefore considered to be the symbol of good fortune. Guo Ziyi's feast
was a popular subject matter for folding screen paintings, as it symbolizes
good fortune within the household and was also used in weddings.
These works of art are all so ethereal and mesmerizing! I adore the Scholars' Coat and Robe!
xoxo
Karena
The Arts by Karena
Gallery Opening!